Tuesday, January 02, 2007

Christmas in Ayacucho

I hope you all had a very Happy Christmas and are enjoying the new year so far! Mine was a very different, but enjoyable one, even though I missed home. Here a few of the highlights ...

At the Wawa Wasi a few days before Christmas we celebrated with paneton and made Papa Noels, which was all good, festive fun!




And although this isn't really a highlight, this was a memorable moment for me that put a lot of things into perspective. On our travels delivering various presents to the prison and the special children's home, we came across this little old lady in the pouring rain.



We'd seen her heading out in the morning, and just before lunchtime we saw her again, trudging back home with a huge pile of firewood in her manta and clutching some bread rolls in her apron. We offered her a lift home, and she timidly accepted. She only spoke Quechua, must have been at least 90, (she said she couldn't rememeber how old she was), wasn't really sure who she lived with (someone was letting her use a part of their house), and she had no money, no relatives ... It was all the more poignant as it was a couple of days before Christmas, and it just reinforced for me how Christmas at home has become so ridiculously extravagant, when so many people in the world have so little.

Marisol interpreting in Quechua

Alejandro giving a helping hand across the road
Christmas Eve is the big event in Peru, with a meal late in the evening and/or paneton at midnight, followed by crazy fireworks and much partying for those who can afford it. We got back from our llama trek in time for a turkey dinner, gooey Christmas cake, and some decorative llamas!



Then we headed for the centre and the main plaza to see what was going on. At 9-ish lots of people were still shopping and most of the churches were open for mass. There were loads of people heading for mass clutching little models of baby Jesus which they get baptised in the church and then take home to their nativity scenes at midnight. Unfortunately most of the bars were closed as people were obviously getting ready for big family gatherings at home. Apparently the plaza gets really busy after midnight - we'd got our timing slightly wrong! So after a bit of a wander round to soak up the atmosphere we decided to head for our own 'home' and celebrate there instead! We built a festive bonfire on the roof and tucked into wine and paneton ...


My red nose is from sun not drinking, by the way ...

At midnight, the city just went wild, with fireworks exploding in all directions, from pavements, off rooftops, and the sky lit up. Very splendid! By this time we'd run out of energy to go back to the plaza, so we carried onwith our own very mini party on the roof and enjoyed the firework display!

Christmas morning, several of us went to the girls' orphanage. Although each dormitary had a nativity scene and a few decorations, and the older kids had received a present from a charity, there wasn't really anything Chrsitmassy going on. It was good we were there to liven things up a bit. I did a tour of the various dormitories, handing out Christmas biscuits and then spent most of my time in with the toddlers and babies, and entertained them with my various furry friends!


In the boys' dormitory


Dennis enjoying the mice ...


Kevin isn't too sure about it all!


Enrique - much bigger now!


Leandro & Javier with Chelsey

Cuddle with Eliseo

Then it was home for lunch washed down with some Peruvian champagne, which I wouldn't recommend, but it had to be tried!

Then a brisk hike up to the cross at the top of the hill behind Ayacucho - something I'd been meaning to do for ages and Christmas afternoon seemed like a good time. I could only persuade young Phil to join me - for some odd reason nobody else was keen. Apparently I have too much energy! The walk was great and the views were fab, and we even managed to escape any thunder storms for once.



Late afternoon we all met up on the roof for a grand 'White Elephant' frenzy - an American version of 'Secret Santa' but with extra rules, where you can steal presents ... and washed down with mulled wine, which went down very well even though it was a lovely sunny day! Then followed by some more drinking and silly games, in true Christmas fashion!

And at dinner, as John had drawn the short straw, he got to wear the Santa costume again, lucky him!



We then even managed a stroll into town after dinner for one more drink to round off the day.
And on 26th it was back to work as normal - not much time off for Christmas here!

No comments: